As could be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has experienced many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe plus a suit. But even though some of his tries to toughen up have already been met with derision, the latest step in the Biebvolution is in fact bang about the fashion money. There has been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been lots of layering – and lots of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
To put it briefly: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could potentially dub it a hot mess for males, but the one thing you would probably never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards needs to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore to the teen awards, has become integral for the increase in rise in popularity of denim and of jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You bought that? Do want me to place proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that were roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing going on; up close, the holes over these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – is there in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was across just about the most talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been held in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just rolled out of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots and a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is merely set to continue: following the show, certainly one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, was to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy take on Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In reality, if all else fails, the important thing to the look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for guys. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear in the past several years. And then finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t look like you’ve made an endeavor but suggests you are aware what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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